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“Captain Crunch”
Written by Jon Zumstein, DBO Staff

Grade: 5.10d

Location: Rumbling Bald NC, Cereal Buttress

Description:

If you are looking for an alternative to the usual NC slab climbing, and it is warm weather, then look no further than “Captain Crunch”. Located on the backside of the ever-popular Cereal Buttress, the “Captain” stands ready to give you that full body lashing you might be craving.

In order to reach this climb, park at the Rumbling Bald parking lot and hike on the lower trail, which leads to the Cereal Buttress. Once there walk right past the first wall, then angle up and left until you come to a small corridor. “Captain Crunch” is the crack that splits the overhanging face on the left. Word of caution: This climb has ample opportunities for placing protection; just make sure you place it.

The climbing is excellent. The lower section is a flaring offwidth, and for many, this part presents the technical crux. The large blocks above represent the first good rest. Once there, place what gear you can in the ominous looking rocks; get a rest, then blast over them to an awkward stance beneath the left trending hand crack. From this point on the clock is ticking so climb with determination. The jams are great, and don’t forget the edges to the left. Eventually the crack widens and the angle backs off slightly. This is definitely the redpoint crux. Do what you can in this last offwidth, then power over the top. Now you can lie down, catch your breath, and enjoy the pump. If you feel like you are going to vomit, don’t despair. You are not the first. There are several trees near the top that can be used to build an anchor. Take care placing your last few pieces of gear to protect your second from swinging across the edge. The descent is easy. Walk to the head of the small alcove and rappel from the tree with slings.

Gear:

Take lots of mid-range and big camming devices. The bare minimum consists of one each: .5, .75, 1, 2, 3, 3.5, and 4 camalots. You will probably want to take a few multiples in the smaller sizes. Large nuts and hexes are also useful as long as you feel comfortable placing them on an overhanging climb.

Guides/Topos:

Selected Climbs in North Carolina, Lambert & Shull, 2002.