| Climbing in Western North Carolina
Featured Climb
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Fat Dog - Looking Glass Rock
Written by Jon Zumstein, DBO Staff
Location: Looking Glass Rock, Pisgah National Forest
Grade: 5.7, 3 pitches
Description:
"Fat Dog" is an excellent moderate climb that offers good exposure
and ample protection yet sees very little trafic on the popular
South Face of Looking Glass Rock. Hike about 100 yards to the
left of "Bloody Crack" (this is where the approach trail reaches
the rock), scramble up on the apron and look for the left facing
off-width crack that extends the height of the face. As intimidating
as it might appear, this climb does not require any painful off-width
climbing techniques and does not need any extra gear beyind the
standard NC free-climbing rack. The widest parts of the crack
generally have small horizontals and don't forget the wall on
the right side. Pitch 1 ends after the initial crack levels off
slightly. Pitch 2 continues up the crack then heads right to a
belay on a low angle ground near a small tree. Pitch 3 is a low
angle scramble to a rappel point in the trees, or a horizontal
traverse to the tree above "Gemini Crack". The descent requires
two 60 meter ropes. From the top rappel the low angle slab to
the tree above "Gemini Crack". Another 120 foot rappel reaches
the Sentry ledge, and from there a short reppel reaches the ground.
Gear:
Standard free climbing rack, two 60 meter ropes
Guides/Topos:
Selected Climbs in North Carolina, Lambert and Shull, 2002; The
Climber's Guide to North Carolina(3rd Edition), Kelly, 1995
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